
The previous fortnight I spent in the hitherto unexplored land of Slovakia with Matej, a fellow adventurer who couch-surfed with me earlier this year. I flew into Bratislava and wandered around on buses until I reached the village of Svätý Anton, nestled in the hills of the country's heart. We stayed several nights in an ancient cottage that had its own well, no indoor plumbing and a sloping lawn full of musical grasshoppers. In the attic I found a chest of newspapers dating back through the communist era of Czechoslovakia and even before World War II.

Apparently Anton was the 'patronus' of hunters (I think he meant 'patron saint') so for that first weekend they held a Hunting Festival in which everybody gathered to display various parts of dead animals for decoration and consumption. It went somewhat against my convictions, but it's just part of their culture and as I have not yet ascended to godhood, my vengeance shall have to be banked.

The presence of New Zealander was considered unusual enough that I was given a special invitation to a nearby Falconry school to observe and experience. Matej starred in the best photo of the day with this magnificent golden eagle.

We climbed the forests and lakes of Banská Štiavnica, wandered around Banská Bystrica and made our way eventually to Beňadiková near Liptovský Mikuláš where his father lives. For three days I surrended to a regime of rank gluttony, attemping to retrieve myself from the emaciation that has wasted my body of late.

From there, we journeyed to his hometown Štrbské pleso (above) and climbed Mount Rysy in the High Tatras. Although it was only 2500m high, I was quite dizzy by the time we reached the top to look over into the wilds of Poland.

After Sunday night staying with his grandmother in Žilina, we took off to Brno in the Czech Republic to set up his new room in time for the new semester. I discovered that I do not like painting. I also rediscovered that sometimes I have a shamefully vile attitude about things.

My final four days were in Svätý Jur with his mother and grandmother. We were just in time for the harvest so we gathered grapes in the vineyard for a day and then operated their 150 year old wine press, turning them into sweet juice for fermentation. As part of the experience, I tried my first two glasses of wine and for the first time in my life I got a little drunk. I can't say I'm a fan of the sensation. Near to his house were the magnificent ruins of Biely Kameň castle, but my most magical moment occurred during our day-trip into Bratislava.

I was wandering through the old town and came upon a courtyard surrounded by the towering ruins of old brick buildings, hollowed out by years of neglect. Windows stared vacantly like the eyes of skulls and the doors gaped into rooms and cellars long abandoned by the living. How could I resist going in?

The nettles stung me as I stepped into the shadows and I paid the toll gladly, brandishing the burning welts on my arms as right of entry. In silent ecstasy I climbed the stairs, treading carefully through crumbled mortar and drifts of rubble that glorified the impermanence of human accomplishment. I climbed higher and higher, over snaking ivy and debris until I reached the fourth floor, an attic half exposed to the sky. For a while I sat among the saplings that grew all around and thanked God for entropy. I didn't need to see those constructions in their prime to know that they had never before been so beautiful.

Tired but gratified I made my way back to London on the 20th of September. My neighbourhood may be scabby and foul after the magic of Slovakia, but my own bed is my own bed, and I know I shall return...