Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Graveyards and Hairspray

Some unusually frigid weather of late has treated us to bursts of snow. Under such romantic conditions, I could not resist the allure of Abney Park Cemetery - my favourite place in this city. I would very much like to live in this chapel.
Lately I have been observing the frenetic finger movements of people playing games on their iPhones and I predict a whole new kind of repetitive strain injury that will emerge. They will call it iPain. I think I already have it, just from watching them.
In order to exploit my expiring theatre opportunities, I went to see A Cat On A Hot Tin Roof starring James Earl Jones and Phylica Rashad (above). I also saw the ballet of The Snow Queen that I had just missed when I arrived two years ago and Matthew Bourne's powerful and sumptuous Swan Lake (below).
I saw Hairspray for the first time on stage in 2008. I went again last week and was blown away by the cast. Well, the young cast at least. Belinda Carlisle is playing Velma von Tussle and although I will always love her for 'Heaven is a Place on Earth', she is so full of Botox that her happy, sad and angry faces all look exactly the same. I too dislike the lines on my forehead that are settling in for the long haul, but I could never rid myself of the ability to emote.
After such unadulterated fun, I went to see it again two days later... and to abort a lengthy explanation, I have now seen it four times in one week. It induces all the same feelings as being in love, which is the perfect climax before I leave. Such experiences are the reason why I came here. Also, I may or may not have developed a mild infatuation with one of the cast members, but that's just a sidenote... It is Wednesday morning now, one day before I fly to Prague. I'm very organised and have done almost all my packing and shifting. I would have time to go to Hairspray again tonight. Although to be fair, if I go one more time I think the cast will be taking restraining orders out against me. It would be so easy though. But I must not. I will not. I will not tell my supervisor that I'm going to the Farmer's Market while I race along to the Shaftesbury Theatre to get another ticket for my last night. Will not. But could.

okayIgottarunbye!

Thursday, 14 January 2010

A Festive Tour of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy

I know that technically it does not exist anymore, but let's not split hairs. For the first time in my life, I spent Christmas Day without seeing another human being. It was bliss. I would love it if all my Christmases were spent this way. On Boxing Day I flew to elegant Vienna to spend the night with a friend before taking the bus up into the Czech Republic. I alighted in Brno (above) and spent a few days enjoying the snow that fell on a city quieter and quainter than London.
Two days before New Year's, I went to Budapest with Matej. In a cost-cutting measure I half regretted, we stayed in a hostel on the outskirts of the city, not far from the bus station. 'Not far from the bus station' is never an claim to be proud of. The hostel was truly squalid, and the Chinese owners spoke neither English nor Hungarian so our introduction to the establishment was conducted largely in sign language.
New Year's Eve saw me feeling rather ill, so I spent the evening lying on the tiny bed in our tiny room, listening to the swarthy man next door beating the daylights out of his girlfriend. Happy New Year to me. I made my resolution while in that helpless position that the following New Year will see me stronger and healthier.
Fortunately, this third visit to the capital of Hungary coincided with my friend Kelsey who was visiting her boyfriend Ali (above).
While Matej luxuriated in the famous spas on New Year's Day, I wandered around the city and met a man I fell in love with. I do not know who he is, what he is writing, or why he is forever trapped in such a melancholy repose, but I recognised him instantly as a muse to writers. While the loud Italian tourists lined up to pose provocatively in his lap for photographs, I stood in silent admiration. When they had thinned, I walked up to him and reverently touched my palm to the nib of his pen. It means nothing to the thousands to rub it mindlessly for good luck, but to me he conferred the creative blessing that remains available only to those who know how to ask.
I spent a great many hours wandering around the city by the time we left on the 2nd of January. I was greatly relieved to walk away from that hostel, the smell of which lingered long after its offensive visuals had faded in my short term memory.
We spent a final night in Vienna again, then I took the train into Slovakia and flew out from Bratislava. I got home at 3am, ready to start the new year of work with a whimper and a slump.
It is now the day before my birthday and I am about to increase my age by another meaningless increment. I've already passed the 30 milestone. It doesn't phase me. But if someone can show me how to inject fat from my buttocks into my forehead, I'd be most grateful.

Tuesday, 17 November 2009

The Andrew Diet of Leaves, Air and Imagination

Such is the nature of my lyfestile, as coined by a brilliant fellow named Christopher who I've come to know in London. Slightly concerned by my emaciated state, he invited me around in the weekend for a proper gastric stuffing and large dollopings of blood and vengeance in the form of Sweeney Todd.
Speaking of appetites, this beautiful big spider started building a web in my window recently. He was a little too large for comfort, so I put him in the back yard. Two days later I came home late at night to find that he had climbed back up two stories to my wide-open window and was building a large circular web. At that point I didn't have the heart to destroy his work and I respect the effort so much that I simply layered up for the night and left the window open. He stayed there for two days before I escorted him to the FAR end of the back yard this time.
As part of my literary pilgrimage series, I visited Oxford recently and hunted down the grave of C.S. Lewis. It turned out to be an unassuming marker in the churchyard of Holy Trinity in Headington on the city's outskirts. Nearby I also visited his house and the forest reserve through which he would wander when dreaming up his Narnia stories. Having forgotten about Daylight Savings on the Sunday morning, I got up an hour earlier than I realised and wandered about in solitude through the Oxford University Botanic Gardens.At the far end of the Gardens I took a seat in the chill morning shade and had a look over my map. To my great surprise, I discovered that I was sitting on Will & Lyra's seat: the very spot where the main characters of Pullman's Dark Materials promised to meet on Midsummers Day. I rippled with goosebumps when I realised. A little red-breasted robin flew up to me and said hello while I sit - I'm sure he was dying to say something.
Naturally, no trip was complete without paying my respects to the aesthetically pleasing dead. The St Sepulchre's Graveyard was overgrown and rambling, full of memories and ghosts. I hope that one day my remains can lie in such a beautiful place as this.It is a little depressing to think that this time last year I was backpacking through Europe, exploring fairy-tale towns and magical villages. Maybe that trace of resentment is the reason why when I saw a man in the lift reading a book called 'The Big Book of Yes Attitude', I could barely resist the urge to punch him. Then again, I think I would have had that reaction at the best of times. Just imagine what I would do to the author...

Monday, 19 October 2009

Watership Down

This year I learned that that one of my favourite literary worlds was in fact a real place, so armed with my superior sense of solar navigation and the map in the front of the book, I embarked on a pilgrimage to Watership Down. The land itself is owned by Andrew Lloyd Webber and it is so unassuming that without prior knowledge, one would never notice that they had stumbled upon the home of those famous rabbits. This view affords a glimpse of the Hampshire environs through which Fiver and his followers trekked in search of a new home. The Downs were cold and I soon shivered in my thin clothes as I watched the underside of the trees breathe and whisper in the chill autumn wind.An attempt to climb this tree resulted in being thrown to the ground (I hadn't asked him for permission). When I tumbled to the ground, I landed on barbed wire which ripped a Harry-Potter-scar-shaped cut into my hand. Apparently you can only catch tetanus if the metal is rusty. Clean barbed wire is fine. Even Nuthanger Farm was exactly where it should be. I could have hiked to find the Warren of the Shining Wire and Efrafa, but my time was short. As the afternoon grew darker, woodsmoke from the cottage chimneys mingled hypnotically with the musky smells of the green countryside and I had to force myself to speed onward in order to catch my bus from Kingsclere.
I saw no rabbits that day, although... as I plummeted into well-earned sleep, in that dreamy world between waking and dreaming, a recollection of the afternoon unfolded to me from memories obscured. I had been lying on the ground and the woods were full of movement; I thought I saw a squirrel although nothing was there. I turned around to something in the corner of my eye but it was just a falling leaf. When I looked back, a rabbit sat before me. He waved his paw in front of my face and said, "These are not the rabbits you are looking for."

Then sleep claimed me fully and I drifted into dreams about bright eyes, burning like fire...

Monday, 21 September 2009

A Slovak Enchantment

The previous fortnight I spent in the hitherto unexplored land of Slovakia with Matej, a fellow adventurer who couch-surfed with me earlier this year. I flew into Bratislava and wandered around on buses until I reached the village of Svätý Anton, nestled in the hills of the country's heart. We stayed several nights in an ancient cottage that had its own well, no indoor plumbing and a sloping lawn full of musical grasshoppers. In the attic I found a chest of newspapers dating back through the communist era of Czechoslovakia and even before World War II.Apparently Anton was the 'patronus' of hunters (I think he meant 'patron saint') so for that first weekend they held a Hunting Festival in which everybody gathered to display various parts of dead animals for decoration and consumption. It went somewhat against my convictions, but it's just part of their culture and as I have not yet ascended to godhood, my vengeance shall have to be banked.The presence of New Zealander was considered unusual enough that I was given a special invitation to a nearby Falconry school to observe and experience. Matej starred in the best photo of the day with this magnificent golden eagle.We climbed the forests and lakes of Banská Štiavnica, wandered around Banská Bystrica and made our way eventually to Beňadiková near Liptovský Mikuláš where his father lives. For three days I surrended to a regime of rank gluttony, attemping to retrieve myself from the emaciation that has wasted my body of late. From there, we journeyed to his hometown Štrbské pleso (above) and climbed Mount Rysy in the High Tatras. Although it was only 2500m high, I was quite dizzy by the time we reached the top to look over into the wilds of Poland.After Sunday night staying with his grandmother in Žilina, we took off to Brno in the Czech Republic to set up his new room in time for the new semester. I discovered that I do not like painting. I also rediscovered that sometimes I have a shamefully vile attitude about things.My final four days were in Svätý Jur with his mother and grandmother. We were just in time for the harvest so we gathered grapes in the vineyard for a day and then operated their 150 year old wine press, turning them into sweet juice for fermentation. As part of the experience, I tried my first two glasses of wine and for the first time in my life I got a little drunk. I can't say I'm a fan of the sensation. Near to his house were the magnificent ruins of Biely Kameň castle, but my most magical moment occurred during our day-trip into Bratislava. I was wandering through the old town and came upon a courtyard surrounded by the towering ruins of old brick buildings, hollowed out by years of neglect. Windows stared vacantly like the eyes of skulls and the doors gaped into rooms and cellars long abandoned by the living. How could I resist going in? The nettles stung me as I stepped into the shadows and I paid the toll gladly, brandishing the burning welts on my arms as right of entry. In silent ecstasy I climbed the stairs, treading carefully through crumbled mortar and drifts of rubble that glorified the impermanence of human accomplishment. I climbed higher and higher, over snaking ivy and debris until I reached the fourth floor, an attic half exposed to the sky. For a while I sat among the saplings that grew all around and thanked God for entropy. I didn't need to see those constructions in their prime to know that they had never before been so beautiful.Tired but gratified I made my way back to London on the 20th of September. My neighbourhood may be scabby and foul after the magic of Slovakia, but my own bed is my own bed, and I know I shall return...

Wednesday, 26 August 2009

Theatre, heat and blood

Some argue against the virtue of celebrity placements in the theatre, but there are times when it works very well. Ethan Hawke was delightfully camp as Autolycus in The Winter's Tale, and Sinead Cusack shone in The Cherry Orchard. That woman is so amazing I would watch her doing the dishes. Rachel Weisz seems overly youthful and luscious for the role of Blanche in A Streetcar Named Desire, but she explored the role perfectly. Opposite her in the role of Stanley, Elliot Cowan was the most brutally exquisite specimen of a male I've seen in a long while, yet I have never loathed a character quite so much as I despised him. I will miss all this when I return to New Zealand.On the 22nd I flew to France and met my friend Michael for a weekend trip to Disneyland Paris. I watched the opening special when it first opened as EuroDisney in 1992 so the nostalgia was thick and fast. We began with the iconic 'It's a small world after all', in which I became increasingly certain that the dolls were staring at me, resenting me, dreaming of awful things to do to me if they were able to drag me down under the building after lights-out...
We were cursed with blue skies and 30+ degrees and I walked around with an umbrella to shield me from the relentless Ultra-Violet. I thought I would attract stares but no one seemed to even notice. The umbrella proved itself to be a god-send, as by mid afternoon even the swarthy Mediterranean types were struggling under the onslaught of the sun.I was rather worried about the weekend, that the commercial reality of a corporation such as Disney would leave my childhood fantasies of Disneyland in tatters, but I really did have a great time. The rollercoaster rides were pretty wild and even the more tame attractions had their own charm. The Spinning Cups ride was one of the most fun, in which we spun the wheel until the back-breaking centrifuge left us staggering from the cup, delirious with laughter. I was disappointed with the merchandise that was available. There were great quantities, but it was mostly dross. Everything was horribly Mickey-obsessed, with very little of Donald Duck who I greatly prefer. He's foul-tempered and a downright prat. What's not to like? Uncle Scrooge is my ultimate favourite and the only thing they had of him was a lapel badge.
My favourite ride was the Phantom Manor. I want to live there so much. If I had all the money in the world to recreate my dream home, it would honestly look like this. It's just perfect. There are some truly eerie scenes inside and brilliantly effective ghosts. And if I lived in a house like this, it would save me from having to erect a 'Go Away' sign on the front gate.The weekend after Disneyland I had three days off to enjoy, and did so while nursing a broken nose. After a week of phasing out carbs and dairy, I embarked on a detoxing raw fruit/vege diet. This was all very well and good, but it did leave me in a weakened state that caused me to black out while getting out of a hot bath on Friday night. I woke up with my face on the floor and blood gushing over my hand from a nose that didn't feel quite the right shape...

As my dizziness gradually faded over the next hour, I cleaned myself up and removed all haemoglobin traces from the bathroom. Suffice it to say, I ended my diet immediately. Extreme I may be, but hopefully not entirely stupid. I didn't go to the doctors because the likelihood of making it to the hospital in East London at midnight without sustaining another injury was not hopeful. I am really not an "Off to the doctor!" type of person anyway. The swelling is gone and the bruise is fading and my nose is now slightly crooked, which as my brother pointed out is fitting, as I was never very straight to begin with.

Friday, 7 August 2009

It's the end of the world as we know it

On July the 15th I saw the finest play I've ever witnessed in my life. At the Royal Haymarket, Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart appeared in Beckett's eerie classic, Waiting for Godot. For two and a half hours of essentially nothing happening on stage except a stark and poignant series of digressing, demented conversations between a few fractured individuals, I was utterly riveted to the stage. The chemistry between those two legends was phenomenal to behold and I feel grateful to have witnessed it. And also they were Magneto and Professor Xavier in X-Men which is really really cool.
And is it just me, or could Stadtler and Waldorf have stood in for Stewart and McKellen without anyone noticing?The drab London summer is perfect weather for vampires, so naturally I am happy as well. Since Canada I have laid low in an attempt to conserve funds, choosing to enjoy instead the diviner pleasures in life, like doing yoga in the rain at night. I am a true kiwi and prefer the world when the sun goes down. See... even this swimming pool looked better at night. Recently, I narrowly avoided becoming a neighbourhood statistic. After seeing Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince (below) again, I found myself walking through a rather deserted area about ten minutes from my house. Three demographic stereotypes in black hoods crept up behind me just before I crossed a bridge that would have left me quite trapped and at their mercy. Alerted by their quickening footsteps behind me, I spun around to find them almost on top of me with two of the three fanned out on either side to prevent me from running. I swerved into the last doorway before the bridge and pounded loudly on the door. The boys called me a pussy and slithered away, unnerved by the potential attention I had attracted. After a few seconds, I sprinted down a side-street and waited with two men outside a house for several minutes. The three boys did return and waited at the end of the street, watching me like patient predators. Eventually they left and I returned home, overwhelmed with gratitude that I was spared whatever crime they intended. Now, if I am walking home at night, I carry a nice pointy pen in my hand. It’s useful not only for taking notes as I go, but for defending myself against thugs, Jehovah’s Witnesses and Death Eaters. The other night as I took a relaxing bath, I enjoyed a soundtrack of crashing noises, screams and angry yelling, a multitude fighting, dogs barking and sirens wailing. You can imagine how in my current living situation, I am quite intrigued by the outbreak of Swine Flu and I'm quite disappointed that they are coming out with a cure. Disease is nature's legitimate method for reducing populations that have swollen beyond sustainability. Thanks to the smiley-faced devil of medical science, our species has bypassed all natural mechanisms for controlling our numbers and now our population is increasing exponentially at the expense of countless other forms of life. We are mimicking the way a malignant tumour ravages the body that sustains it, and I'm just waiting for a giant doctor to come along with a giant scalpel. I recently watched the trailer for 2012, an upcoming disaster film about the end of our civilisation. It got me all excited.

There are a number of foxes living near my house and I have taken a strong liking to them. They have even wormed their way into my story, which I must finish before 2012 when the world is apparently going to end.

On that lovely note, I bid you all adieu.

Wednesday, 8 July 2009

Vive le Montreal

On Thursday I travelled south to Kingston. I had my best couchsurfing experience to date with Hilary, a delightful artist I stayed with for three nights. With her I was able to recover from my sunstroke by being as idle as I wished. The town was humid and prone to rain, although one afternoon we had a freak hailstorm.

The wedding party, such as we were, went Ten Pin Bowling on Friday night. Poor Serge discovered why I don't play sports. I'm just useless at anything that involves balls.
On Saturday, Christopher and Serge married each other in a simple, heartfelt ceremony that took place beneath a maple tree in the front yard of Christopher's family home. I was one of many who crossed oceans and continents to attend.

A Sunday afternoon bus took me east to Montreal where I was greeted by Xavier, a young fellow I met on the nightbus from Amsterdam to Bremen last November. We stayed in a central apartment he was housesitting. For the period of this week we experienced what is known as a 'bromance'.

His gestures of affection included but were not limited to: carrying my bags, buying me food and souvenirs, serenading me on the piano, preparing midnight dinners for our rooftop chats, and hand-feeding me the gourmet cheeses and delicacies that his father gave us for the week. Pity he's straight.
Together we climbed Mount Royal, the central hill from which the city derives its name. We lost ourselves in the forest as we ascended, hiding behind rocks and racing each other up the slopes. At the summit we watched as dark, angry clouds rolled languorously over Montreal, the air thickening with tension. When the downpour began, we sprinted back down the hillside, overtaking each other in turns until we emerged, wet and exhilarated at our apartment on Fort & Maisonneuve. It was like being a child again.Rio the hair-factory uses the plughole to dispose of the bodies of her enemies. Even when she does not have any body parts to discard, she likes to hang out in the bath, just to pay her respects to the dead. She's a lady that way. I saw my first skunk and a friendly raccoon running around a park at night. Montreallers are brilliantly bilingual and they switch between French and English with ease. It really is a European city. Their independent sense of culture and identity is quite understandable. They are also really really really good looking. However, people are still people, and I was asked for a light by a man on the street who then commented, "You speak really nice English. Is it Shakespearean?" It would have taken too long to explain how deeply mistaken he was about (probably) so many things, so I just smiled and said, "Yes. Yes it is."
It was sad to say goodbye to Xavier so soon. He is ten years my junior, but my senior in generosity and kindness. After six nights there I returned to Toronto which is in the throes of a midsummer garbage strike. Rubbish bags are piled up in parks and lots, while the bins on the street are overflowing like cornucopias of human wastage. It's about time that we saw what pigs we really are. Perhaps this swine flu is quite appropriate...
I spent my Sunday night - my last in Toronto - in a hot tub on the top of an apartment building. It's frightfully important to go out with a little style. London welcomed me back with those grey skies that I love so much and I am now enjoying the rain. I missed the big London heatwave and I couldn't be happier.

Thursday, 25 June 2009

Bienvenue à Canada!

On June the 14th 2005, I arrived in Canada for the first time. On June the 16th 2006 I visited again. On June the 18th 2009 I visited for the third time. I couldn't have planned that if I tried...
Toronto reintroduced me to a subsection of society that I think I had forgotten about. Generally considered to be a cult, this group uses standard cult rhetoric such as "You Belong" to enforce their group mentality, and even develop their own districts in an attempt to cloister themselves away from the rest of the world. I am speaking, of course, of the cult of the gays. I stumbled up one of their communes as I walked up Church Street. I was first tipped off when I noticed a profusion of rainbows. The gays, like George Bush, need to see a flag every few steps otherwise they can be easily disoriented and forget where they are. I attracted many stares as I walked through, looking waxen and cadaverous in my heavy sunscreen. They must have been wondering what Gollum was doing so far away from Middle Earth, and in the middle of the day. I didn't linger too long for fear that they might think I was also a gay. Of all the nerve. What would the ladies in my prayer circle think??

I had a lovely day of cycling around High Park and its surrounds, visiting 13 secondhand bookstores in the process. Most remaining time was spent with Christopher and Serge, the couple whose wedding I came here for. After four nights, I journeyed 450 kms northeast in Ottawa, the nation's capital. I stayed with Jamie, a friend I've not seen since 2001 in Korea. We spent my first full day driving around Gatineau Park and hiking around Pink Lake. Jamie was a little less comfortable in the forest, as he was quite certain he could hear caterpillars falling out of the trees, but he punished me sufficiently later on, by making shotgun noises when a bird would fly past. To be fair, I did give him the reaction he was hunting for. I saw my first beaver (the animal), my first snake (which I chased, rather than fled), not to mention Victor the Death Squirrel and Larry the Chipmunk of Doom. On Wednesday I foolishly walked two hours into town in relentless sun and 35°C heat. I nearly died. I was over-tired that night, and spent the next day with a pounding headache, feeling like a trainwreck. I am having a great time, but if I survive this, I will never forgive Christopher and Serge for getting married in the summer... "We'll get them won't we... yesss my preciousss... we will..."

Monday, 15 June 2009

I'm toxic and I'm slipping under

Life passes mechanically in London. I write on the crowded bus to work, after which I sit at a computer for eight hours and when I'm not making life difficult for the overpaid, unintelligent callers, I write. I then take the smelly crowded bus back home and write - though the bus is always filled with people who leave me fantasising about eugenics. At home I have a bath and write, sit at my computer and write... I'm sure the pattern is evident.

Last week I went to the Britney Spears concert, thinking it would be fun and iconic (and expensive) way to tick 'Big Pop Concert' off my list of things to do. I was glad I did it with Yvette, as with her company I am guaranteed a good time. However, we were so far from the stage, that little blonde smudge might have been Christina Aguilera for all we could tell. Whoever it was, her microphone certainly wasn't on. Once I surrendered myself to the vulgarity of it, it was amusing enough.

To the annoying girls in front of us who thought they were the hottest things alive and consequently made love to their self-images the whole night, I feel obliged to tell you (just because I'm SUCH a good person) this is what you look like when you dance:

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Sverige og Norge

I hadn't seen Oscar since Korea in early 2003, so to spend an afternoon with him and his girlfriend as he passed through London was nostalgic indeed. The Milennium Bridge behind us will be destroyed in a spectacularly sorcerous fashion at the start of new Harry Potter movie coming out very soon...Prior to the commencement of another long weekend I stuck out my umbrella and caught the nearest firm breeze to Sweden. Stockholm is an elegant and attractive city, featuring a profusion of waterways between the islands that make up the capital, and a lovely Old Town in the centre of the archipelago.
On my first night I was hosted by a very odd Canadian man with very dubious communication skills. For a translator, I found that odd. Also odd was the continual puckering of his mouth, contorting of his lower face and general grimacing that gave him all the appearance of a wizened, toothless crone. There was nothing for us to talk about. He didn't understand any of the ideas I expressed, and I don't have the slightest regard for being trendy or fabulous.

Despite this initial setback, I did my best to be social and met up for walks and drinks with locals. I had morning tea with Ruzhdi the Albanian hairdresser and afternoon tea with Kahlil the shy Palestinian. Kahlil had an oracular ornament in the concept of a Magic-8 Ball to which I posed the following question: When will I experience the most meaningful moment of my trip? The dial stopped perfectly between 'Today' and 'Sleep On It'. I took that to mean the period between day and night, so... evening. Sure enough, that evening I some lovely artists who run a quaint old sign shop, from whom I bought the following sign.They are working on an impending exhibition about toilets with a working title of 'The Big Sh!t Exhibition'. I suggested 'Nature Calls', which they were so delighted with, they have adopted it as the formal name and will be inviting me back to Stockholm later in the year. Whether or not circumstances permit me to attend, it is a wonderful connection to make with the city.

Soaring on the high of this event I proceeded to a music store where I found a copy of the Swedish version of Chess (somewhat of a Holy Grail for me) which rang up at a much lesser price than the marked amount. Clearly, the oracle had answered me truly.
I was vaguely daunted by the inherent implication that my trip had already peaked, but proceeded the following day to go kayaking with a tall, burly Swede (finally) named Ulf. We paddled around the waterways in denial of our land-based origins until it was time for me to get ready for my arduous night bus to Oslo.
Night buses are a trial already, without an idiotic pair of breeders deeming it appropriate to bring a screaming baby on board. The fantasies that ran through my mind were quite universally felonious.

I was too tired to enjoy Oslo. The connections I attemped fell flat and the centre of Oslo was rough and jarring after the stateliness of Stockholm. As you can see, it does have some lovely spaces outside the centre but it's a shame I had no time to get out into the rest of Norway which is as stunning as New Zealand.

The oracle was right. My trip DID peak that evening. Knowing the future in advance does little to influence it one way or the other.

Lämna inga dörrar på glänt!

Thursday, 7 May 2009

Banshees and Leprechauns

In my weekend excursion to the Emerald Isle, I saw not so much as a midget who could have passed for a Leprechaun, but there was the occasional wreck of a female who could have passed for a Banshee.
There is little to say about Dublin except that which you already know: Guinness, Sinn Fein, the Spire (at sunrise above) and lots of Italians. That always messes with my gaydar. You think you 'know', but they might just be Italian. It's so hard to tell these days.

My brightest moments occurred while walking in the rain. Belfast was a pleasant city with lots of retired people and a few good secondhand bookstores. I enjoyed wandering around the Botanic Gardens with its majestic Palm House (circa 1840) as seen below. A lunchtime concert at the Ulster Hall featuring Mozart's Jupiter injected a compelling dose of culture.

When the weather soured and the wind and rain lashed everyone on the streets I found myself in a better mood. It's disturbing how much happier I am when everyone else is miserable...
Not a great amount happened in Ireland and everything I considered amusing falls definitely under the category of "You had to be there". So to avoid boring you with anecdotes that die upon the retelling, I leave you with a photo of my visit to the C.S. Lewis statue and my favourite quote from the trip.
Uttered confidently by a random Irish woman: "I studied geography: I don't need directions."

Wednesday, 15 April 2009

The Wilds of Dartmoor

Days before the Easter break I realised that I was faced with a lazy weekend of absolutely nothing. I embarked on a last-minute scramble to plan a trip out of the city, and on Thursday evening ended up at the elegant Victoria Coach station, waiting for hours on a disorganised bus service. It was probably a good thing, as my public bacteria levels were getting low.

In the morning I set off on foot from Newton Abbot and walked for two hours along narrow country roads that would have been pretty if not for the endless stream of humans in their stinking cars. Then at Bovey Tracey I was given directions by an elderly couple which - naturally - I ignored and went on my own way. According to my mother, I've been doing this since I was old enough to walk.
Very shortly it was as though I had crossed over into Narnia and the frolicking began. I walked 25kms that day without resting. Along whimsical country lanes, through forests and flowers, over hilltops and desolate stony tors I journeyed.
Late in the day but still hours from my destination, I was given a lift in a deserted lane by a handsome woodcutter. He drove me the rest of the way, but not before insisting that we stop at a lookout to have a smoke and watch the sinking sun transform the clouds. After an hour of sparkling conversation he dropped me off at Bellever with one more thing in my pocket - his phone number.
The sun was setting on Bellever as I crossed the old bridge into the village. As soon as dusk had settled into total darkness I went out walking again. London is polluted not only with fumes but with light and noise. For the first time in England I experienced true night. At the river I lay down on the ruins of the old clapper bridge and with my head hanging backwards I imagined that the silvery waters were really a rippling nightscape.
By the time I had started to imagine a multitude of corpses hanging from nooses in the gaping windows of a large mansion that all laughed at me as I walked past, I decided that I had been spooked out enough and so I walked back past the inky, silent forest and went to sleep.The next day I struggled for hours through fields of thorns and gorse before meeting up with a fellow couch-surfer named Simon. From the austere settlement of Princetown he took me on another large walk through lonely moors and stately ruins so rich with silence that unshelling an egg seemed intrusively loud.
I sprained my ankle and ended up hobbling in pain by the end of the day, but nonetheless, I completed another 25kms. (that's about 16 miles for you old-worlders)
The following day I took it easy as we drove around Dartmoor, stopping only for bite-sized walks that I limped along with a modicum of frustration at my unwelcome limitations. At the end of the day I was sitting on a knoll waiting to meet Tom the woodcutter. As I sat, I prayed "Dear God, remember Brokeback Mountain...?"
I limped along with Tom and his friend to Wistman's Wood, an ancient tract of twisted oak forest renowned for it's eerie atmosphere. Even the most rational locals regard the woods with a degree of uncertainty. I went carefully off by myself and found an oak who gave me permission to sit a while in his old gnarled arms. With feverish anticipation I approached him and lay myself down, bent backwards over a large root as though I had slipped and broken my spine. My mind swiftly sank into deeper rhythms as he let me in to his world and showed me what it was like to be an oak.
The silence was vibrating with an inaudible thrum of life so much older and patient than I. He kept telling me to stretch out my legs fully and when I eventually obeyed, it felt as though I was receiving a deep tissue massage and I nearly passed out.
I couldn't but help thinking that I was like a fly on the back of an elephant, fleeting and fickle against his timeless steadfastness. He was so patient with my hopelessly distracted mind but continued to include me until the spell eventually released me and I returned to the world of humans and their petty concerns. I took this photo and stood up, back locked and half my body trapped in an ecstatic paralysis.
When the feeling eventually returned to my legs I found to my amazement that I could no longer feel the pain in my foot. I made my way out of the woods and ran most of the way back, leaping over rocks and bounding up slopes. I came looking for magic and it found me. There is more of God's character to be discovered in the gentleness of an old tree than in a church building.

However, I was lucky that he was an oak, as they are known to be friendly. Had I been in an elm forest I would never have dared to linger...I spent the evening in a farm cottage complete with a firey hearth, a cage of cheeping chicks on the table and a sweethearted but rather unphotogenic sow in the shed nearby. The hearty Easter roast was the best food I've tasted since Christmas in the countryside of Austria. Another night of tranquility, an ebon sky littered with diamonds and then in the morning I was off to Exeter for a drawn out day of waiting for my bus. My imagination is still humming with the places I saw, the emotions I felt and the ghosts that grazed my mind as I wandered through their haunts.
And I finally have a location for my novel; Gravedeep will be nestled in the ancient heart of Dartmoor...

Saturday, 28 March 2009

Vitamin D is an urban myth

It is the weekend, and as usual I slept most of the day away, waiting for the garish sun to set before venturing outside. I went for a long walk after midnight which I enjoyed so much I have decided that nighttime is the new daytime.

People regularly admonish me over the alleged importance of Vitamin D, but I don't think it even exists.
On the nightbus home I intervened when a drunk man was harrassing some girls. No one was doing anything so I manhandled him away and gave him a proper dressing down. If people are determined to behave like five year olds, I will insist on speaking to them as such. It's not the first time this has happened... one of these days I'll get my face punched in, but in the meantime there's nothing like a cold calculated application of advanced vocabulary to stun the peasantry into submission.

Maybe I could work at nights as a masked vigilante. Just imagine... I wouldn't even have to wear any sunscreen! In light of my cadaverous pallour I could dub myself 'The Ghost'.

What with the budget pressures of the current time, I have been living a stringently ascetic lifestyle. If left to my own devices, my diet becomes so spartan that my last meal was composed of day-old toast, three-day old leftovers and a much maligned banana.

I have even tried to save money by taking the bus into work. This avoids having to buy a travelpass for the week. However, on Tuesday when I got on a bus that was too full for me to reach the card reader, the police did a check and found that mine hadn't been swiped yet so I was fined 50 pounds. I don't intend to pay.

As you can see, I found a wonderful old graveyard. It might be my new favourite place in London... Maybe I should complete the vampirish transformation and just move in there.

In a few days the G20 summit will take place in London City. Riots are feared, violence is promised and I can taste the sweetness of blood on the wind...

Tuesday, 3 March 2009

Them bones, them bones, them... dry bones

The snow was short-lived. The ground is now bare and dry. A moment of silence please...God bless London for its hubbish qualities. My ex-Dymocks/flatmates Adri & Andrew passed through recently and we all caught up for dinner and a midnight stroll along Westminster. With my new camera lens from Flourish & Blots I managed to snap a fleeting image of the Knight Bus.I returned to my occasional catering role at NZ Embassy on Friday night, serving wine at a book launch. The service part I perform with excellence, but the minute someone actually asks me about the alcohol I look like a Mormon who has just been asked an unscripted question. The most recent (and vaguely repetitive) incident went as follows:

"Which one is better, the Sauvignon Blanc or the Riesling? Is this one very dry?"
"Well... it's a liquid. So... no."

I have since been educated and it turns out that the Riesling is in fact 'dry'. Will wonders never cease...

I think 'dry' no longer means what I thought it meant. If a wine can be dry and my humour is dry and a sexlife can be dry, then heaven help the English language. One fun night out I went with an ex-Dominion workmate to see La Cage Aux Folles (The Birdcage) with a workmate in which Graeme Norton starred with a stageful of dancers, the calibre of which I have rarely if ever witnessed. If I could throw my leg over my head like that it would open up so many career opportunities. In this time of uncertainty and mass redundancy it might be something to work towards...The Donmar production of Twelfth Night was also an utter treat, with our friend Harry (the burglaresque fellow third from left) in a hilarious capacity as Sir Andrew Aguecheek. A group of seven of us went to see him. I miss Harry. He's delightfully dry.
My backyard is perfect for campfires and toasting marshmallows. Fire is also dry... right? I can't tell anymore. I know gooey gelatin and sugar is so wrong, but it feels... so... right.