Tuesday, 17 November 2009

The Andrew Diet of Leaves, Air and Imagination

This beautiful big spider started building a web in my window recently. He was a little too large for comfort, so I put him in the back yard. Two days later I came home late at night to find that he had climbed back up two stories to my wide-open window and was building a large circular web. At that point I didn't have the heart to destroy his work and I respect the effort so much that I simply layered up for the night and left the window open. He stayed there for two days before I escorted him to the FAR end of the back yard this time.
As part of my literary pilgrimage series, I visited Oxford recently and hunted down the grave of C.S. Lewis. It turned out to be an unassuming marker in the churchyard of Holy Trinity in Headington on the city's outskirts. Nearby I also visited his house and the forest reserve through which he would wander when dreaming up his Narnia stories. Having forgotten about Daylight Savings on the Sunday morning, I got up an hour earlier than I realised and wandered about in solitude through the Oxford University Botanic Gardens.At the far end of the Gardens I took a seat in the chill morning shade and had a look over my map. To my great surprise, I discovered that I was sitting on Will & Lyra's seat: the very spot where the main characters of Pullman's Dark Materials promised to meet on Midsummers Day. I rippled with goosebumps when I realised. A little red-breasted robin flew up to me and said hello while I sit - I'm sure he was dying to say something.
Naturally, no trip was complete without paying my respects to the aesthetically pleasing dead. The St Sepulchre's Graveyard was overgrown and rambling, full of memories and ghosts. 

Monday, 19 October 2009

Watership Down

This year I learned that that one of my favourite literary worlds was in fact a real place, so armed with my superior sense of solar navigation and the map in the front of the book, I embarked on a pilgrimage to Watership Down. The land itself is owned by Andrew Lloyd Webber and it is so unassuming that without prior knowledge, one would never notice that they had stumbled upon the home of those famous rabbits. This view affords a glimpse of the Hampshire environs through which Fiver and his followers trekked in search of a new home. The Downs were cold and I soon shivered in my thin clothes as I watched the underside of the trees breathe and whisper in the chill autumn wind.An attempt to climb this tree resulted in being thrown to the ground (I hadn't asked him for permission). When I tumbled to the ground, I landed on barbed wire which ripped a Harry-Potter-scar-shaped cut into my hand. Apparently you can only catch tetanus if the metal is rusty. Clean barbed wire is fine. Even Nuthanger Farm was exactly where it should be. I could have hiked to find the Warren of the Shining Wire and Efrafa, but my time was short. As the afternoon grew darker, woodsmoke from the cottage chimneys mingled hypnotically with the musky smells of the green countryside and I had to force myself to speed onward in order to catch my bus from Kingsclere.
I saw no rabbits that day, although... as I drifted into well-earned rest, in that dreamy world between waking and sleeping, a recollection of the afternoon returned to me as though my memories had been obscured. I had been lying on the ground on Watership Down and the woods were full of movement; I thought I saw a squirrel although nothing was there. I turned around to something in the corner of my eye but it was just a falling leaf. When I looked back, a rabbit sat before me. He waved his paw in front of my face and said, "These are not the rabbits you are looking for."

Then sleep claimed me fully and I fell into dreams about bright eyes, burning like fire...

Monday, 21 September 2009

A Slovak Enchantment

The previous fortnight I spent in the hitherto unexplored land of Slovakia with a fellow adventurer.. I flew into Bratislava and wandered around on buses until I reached the village of Svätý Anton, nestled in the hills of the country's heart. We stayed several nights in an ancient cottage that had its own well, no indoor plumbing and a sloping lawn full of musical grasshoppers. In the attic I found a chest of newspapers dating back through the communist era of Czechoslovakia and even before World War II.

We climbed the forests and lakes of Banská Štiavnica, wandered around Banská Bystrica and made our way eventually to Beňadiková near Liptovský Mikuláš.From there, we journeyed to his hometown Štrbské pleso (above) and climbed Mount Rysy in the High Tatras. Although it was only 2500m high, I was quite dizzy by the time we reached the top to look over into the wilds of Poland.I was wandering through the old town of Bratisalva and came upon a courtyard surrounded by the towering ruins of old brick buildings, hollowed out by years of neglect. Windows stared vacantly like the eyes of skulls and the doors gaped into rooms and cellars long abandoned by the living. How could I resist going in?

Wednesday, 8 July 2009

Vive le Montreal




Montreallers are brilliantly bilingual and they switch between French and English with ease. It really is a European city. Their independent sense of culture and identity is quite understandable. They are also really really really good looking. However, people are still people, and I was asked for a light by a man on the street who then commented, "You speak really nice English. Is it Shakespearean?" It would have taken too long to explain how deeply mistaken he was about (probably) so many things, so I just smiled and said, "Yes. Yes it is."

Friday, 8 May 2009

Ireland

The Dublin Spire

My brightest moments occurred while walking in the rain.
Belfast was a pleasant city with lots of retired people and a few good secondhand bookstores. I enjoyed wandering around the Botanic Gardens with its majestic Palm House (circa 1840) as seen below.
With the monument to C. S. Lewis:

Wednesday, 15 April 2009

The Wilds of Dartmoor

Days before the Easter break I realised that I was faced with a lazy weekend of absolutely nothing. I embarked on a last-minute scramble to plan a trip out of the city, and on Thursday evening ended up at the elegant Victoria Coach station, waiting for hours on a disorganised bus service.

In the morning I set off on foot from Newton Abbot.



The sun was setting on Bellever as I crossed the old bridge into the village. As soon as dusk had settled into total darkness I went out walking again. London is polluted not only with fumes but with light and noise. For the first time in England I experienced true night. At the river I lay down on the ruins of the old clapper bridge and with my head hanging backwards I imagined that the silvery waters were really a rippling nightscape.


I sprained my ankle and ended up hobbling in pain by the end of the day, but nonetheless, I completed another 25kms. 
I limped along to Wistman's Wood, an ancient tract of twisted oak forest renowned for it's eerie atmosphere. Even the most rational locals regard the woods with a degree of uncertainty. I went carefully off and found an oak who gave me permission to sit a while in his old gnarled arms. With feverish anticipation I approached him and lay myself down, bent backwards over a large root as though I had slipped and broken my spine. My mind swiftly sank into deeper rhythms as he let me in to his world and showed me what it was like to be an oak.
The silence was vibrating with an inaudible thrum of life so much older and patient than I.

I couldn't but help thinking that I was like a fly on the back of an elephant, fleeting and fickle against his timeless steadfastness.
When I finally stood up and the feeling eventually returned to my legs I found to my amazement that I could no longer feel the pain in my foot. I made my way out of the woods and ran most of the way back, leaping over rocks and bounding up slopes. I came looking for magic and it found me. There is more of God's character to be discovered in the gentleness of an old tree than in a church building.

However, I was lucky that he was an oak, as they are known to be friendly. Had I been in an elm forest I would never have dared to linger...

Tuesday, 6 January 2009

A Riegersburg Christmas

On Christmas Eve I flew out to Vienna and drove to Reigersburg.
FI felt like a boy again, climbing up the sides of castle escarpments, monkeying up trees and skimming walnuts across the frozen pond to make that delightful metallic pinging sound.