My first major stop in Poland was Krakow, a gem of a city that I wish I had given more than three nights. Finding the Rakowice cemetery after stretches of busy roads and traffic was like waking up from a bad dream into a bright new day. Of course, my bright new day is grey, melancholy and full of dead people.
The morning of my departure, I visited the Jewish Cemetery. If I thought the previous cemetery was delightful, I was now in heaven. Great care was required to avoid walking through the giant spiderwebs that stretched between the graves and trees. Some were finely spun and shivered like silk. Others were two or three metres wide and supported by strands that were as thick as nylon cord. Many contained juicy, beautiful spiders. Suffice it to say, I came out of the cemetery draped with liberal quantities of spider webs. Edgar Allan Poe eat your heart out.
