Thursday 19 September 2013

The Czech chapter

In 2011 I stayed with my friend Slaven on the north coast of Poland, but this time we caught up in the city where we met, Prague.
Our first expedition into the countryside led us to Valdstejn Castle. We arrived as a wedding party left, and found to our delight the occasional flute of champagne left untouched around the castle. Wastage being a sin, we were morally obliged to put a swift end to them. It was like an Easter Egg Hunt, only infinitely better.

After a long hike lush forests and rocky crags, we arrived late to the ruins of Castle Trosky (above).  Slaven warned me it might be impossible to get inside, but I assured him that I did not understand the meaning of this sentence.
The gates were firmly locked and monitored by cameras, so I was forced to scale a 5m stone wall to gain entry.  The things people make me do...
Our second adventure took us to the magical town of Cesky Krumlov.  I have never seen a more fairy-tale setting and if there was one place I wish everyone could see, this is it.
It was unfortunately congested with tourists, and it's not that I hate all other tourists, for the hypocrisy of that statement would be too much for even me to shoulder, but I hate most other tourists: lumbering, loud, blocking the road with sluggish tour groups and milling around like a languid fart... my kingdom for a cattle-prod.
 I stayed overnight by myself and enjoyed the town much more when the streets were dark and deserted.
On the way back to Prague the next morning, I stopped in Trisov for a hike to the ruined castle of Divci Kamen (above and below). Not the brooding skies, not the stubborn rain and not even the insane, uphill run that got me back to the train on time could dampen my enjoyment.
Inside these ruins was a space designed for gatherings with a stage and benches arranged amongst the stones.

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